So last week I mentioned that I was looking forward to this particular “3×3 Garden” as it contains two of my most favorite things in the summer garden: dahlias and the color purple! So if you’re like me and have a “passion for purple”, then this combination might be just what you and your partial to full sun spot need! This is also a great trio for those of you who share my love for enjoying fresh flowers in the house as all three of these charmers make excellent cut flowers. The vibrancy of the purple dahlias are a perfect complement to the striking pinks of the smaller plants in this trio. The three amazing plants in the following garden layouts are the Lipstick Calla Lily, the Jan Van Schaeffelaar Pompon Dahlia, and the Purple Gem Cactus Dahlia.

Lipstick Calla Lily (9 total corms)

The color of this little beauty couldn’t be more perfect in this combination, nor could the name be more fitting. Truly reminiscent of a classic pink lipstick color, these callas lilies have a gorgeous, almost honeysuckle color to them with a noticeable yellow stamen in the center of each. Topping out at just 16″ tall, these border-type plants fit nicely around and underneath the larger foliage of the dahlias. Like the other plants in this grouping, this one can handle a little bit of shade so a partially sunny location is ideal.

Jan Van Schaeffelaar Pompon Dahlia (6 total tubers)

The bright pink color and tightly-growing petals of the Jan Van Schaeffelaar Pompon Dahlia are two delightful qualities of this plant. This has got to be one of my favorite dahlias (despite the dreadfully long name ). I just love the round blooms it produces and feels it adds a very cheery touch to this garden combination. This one grows 24-36″ tall on extremely sturdy stems which makes it great for cutting and planting in containers.

Purple Gem Cactus Dahlia (3 total tubers)

Texture. Texture. Texture! That’s what this plant’s role is all about in this trio. The rounded edges of the calla lily and pompon dahlia’s petals create a very subdued, relaxed feeling when all of a sudden Kazam!… the radiating, vibrant purple petals of the cactus dahlia stick straight out from the center and make a statement. Sometimes growing as tall as 60″, the Purple Gem Dahlia craves attention as it stands above the rest and puts on a show. Again, great for cutting and handling small amounts of shade, there is sure to be an application for this beauty in your yard.

Garden Layout #1: Circular Garden Bed or Round Container

The tall height of the Cactus Dahlia make them an excellent focal point in a circular-shaped garden area. Begin by placing the (3) Purple Gem Dahlia tubers in the center of the bed in a triangular-shaped pattern, approximately 12-18″ apart leaving them enough room for the lush foliage which grows towards the base of the dahlia plant. Leave approximately 12″ of soil between them and the next dahlias, placing the (6) Pink Pompon Dahlias around them in a circle, also leaving 12″ or so between each. Finish off the layout by placing the (9) Lipstick Calla corms around the dahlias to form a border, leaving 6-8″ of space between each. This should cover a circular bed which is at least 60-72″ in diameter.

Garden Layout #2: Rectangular Garden Bed

This layout would be perfect for planting along a  straight-walled structure as the towering habit of the Purple Gem Dahlias makes an excellent screen or cover to break up a boring wall or fence. Place the Purple Gems towards the back and center of the bed, arranging them in a stretched obtuse triangle pattern as shown in the diagram, leaving approximately 18″ between each. Then place the Pompon Dahlias slightly in front of but also among the Purple Gems in two groups of three, spacing them at about 12″. The (9) Lipstick Callas should then be used to form a border of sorts in front of the dahlias, spacing them 6-8″ apart in a diagonal pattern.

Garden Layout #3: Half Circle Garden Bed

Since these bulbs don’t need a full day of direct sunlight, they can work perfect in a partially shaded bed under a light-filtering tree or other structure. Place the (3) Purple Gem Cactus dahlia around the base of the tree, again leaving 12-18″ of space between them. Continue by planting the pompon dahlias again in two separate “triangle” shapes among the large cactus dahlias. Finish the bed off by filling in the rest of the area, placing the calla corms in a diagonal pattern along the border.

Ah yes. These combinations are truly my favorites. This trio collection is also available for 50% off from Holland Bulb Farms which will make it easy for you to try in your own garden! Click here and check it out! Next week’s trio contains some of the best-loved perennials…great for those of us in the colder climates!

With hands in the dirt and head in the clouds,

I’ll admit it: up until a few years ago, I didn’t mess around with bulbs that weren’t hardy in my area. I only grew those plants which I knew would reliably return year after year and if I did grow anything that wouldn’t survive the winter, well, I grew it as an annual and just planned on replanting the following season. However, I soon grew tired of spending large amounts of money each year on plants and bulbs that would simply be lost to earth once the snow began to fall. It was finally when I fell absolutely head over heels for a dahlia which I grew that I decided to try the concept of overwintering some of these bulbs. I soon realized that my fear was not a legitimate one and the process was actually quite easy!

First of all, you will need to identify which bulbs are hardy in your zone and which are not. For those of you in the warmer zones, such as southern parts of 8, 9, 10, and 11, most of this will not apply. However, for anyone in the northern region of zone 8 or above, most of the spring-planted bulbs (such as dahlias, cannas, calla lilies, caladiums, begonias, etc.) will need to be overwintered indoors in order to keep them for next year. If you are unsure of your zone, simply enter your zip code here.

Once you have determined which bulbs you need to save from the winter weather, you are ready to get to work! Follow these simple steps to save yourself time and money next spring:

1. Once the leaves of the plant have yellowed or been affected by a light frost, carefully dig the bulb, tuber, or rhizome from the ground.
2. Brush off as much of the dirt as possible from the root system and place on a dry surface, such as a on top of a paper bag or screen of some kind.
3. The time it will take for the root system to dry out (or “cure”) will depend on the specific type of bulb. Dahlias, for instance will be dry in a half of day, cannas will be ready overnight, and gladiolus take a couple of weeks. If in doubt, leave the bulbs for several weeks and check them for moisture. If any foliage or dirt remains attached once the root systems are cured, remove them.
4. Once the bulbs are dried, you will want to place them in a shallow pot or tray and cover them with dry planting material, such as peat or sawdust. If you are overwintering any gladiolus, place them in a bag of breathable material but do not cover. Make sure to label your pots/bags with colors and varieties so that you know what you have when it comes to planting time in the spring!
5. Place these containers in a cool, dark location which receives good air circulation and remains dry throughout the winter. Once the threat of frost has passed in the spring, replant and enjoy them again!

Now is the perfect time to start this process for many northern parts of the country. If the idea of overwintering your tender bulbs intimidates you, maybe just start with a few and give it a shot…I’m guessing you’ll find it easier than you thought!

Until next time,

 
Have a comment to share with other readers? Feel free to post below. Have a question specifically for Bridget? Feel free to email her at bridget@bulbblog.com!

Some of you may remember back in July when Holland Bulb Farms brought back their oh-so popular “Trivia Month” on their facebook page. One of the trivia questions centered around my blog article “Garden Makeover: Bridget Edition” and promised the winner a blog post featuring THEIR garden! The lucky winner was Seth Denny, 24-year old of Austin, Minnesota.

The Gardener

Seth remembers his first gardening experience when he was just 4 years old. He recalls helping his mom dig up what soil he could from the garden and also recalls his first trip to the greenhouse. It was there that he picked out a Bergenia (GREAT choice!) and his love affair with plants began. He started his own gardening journey just last year when he moved into his current apartment. Seth gardens because of the joy it brings to himself and others. “No one can feel bad when they look into a sea of pink, purple, and white floral beauty!” he says.

Due to the third-shift nature of his job, Seth says he finds himself in his garden most often times in the early morning hours. What a beautiful time to be out in the garden! I have often fantasized about doing the same: sneaking out of the house before my girlies wake and getting some much needed garden therapy in before the day begins. Unfortunately for me, it never gets much past the fantasy Seth’s work schedule affords him almost all of the daylight he could desire and says he spends an average of 2 hours each day out in his garden performing various tasks of pruning, weeding, and watering. When he’s not in the garden, he enjoys hiking and biking, and an occasional card or video game on the rainy days. He is also kept busy by tending to his aquariums and his two feline friends, Meg and Hermie.

The Garden

Seth’s “apartment” is hardly one at all but a mid-nineteenth century farmhouse which has been converted into four separate dwelling units. What a great place to rent! Seth says that when he first moved in last April, the surroundings were nothing more than remnants of the previous dweller’s work from many years ago. The landlady of the apartment is “one of the nicest people” Seth says he has ever met (lucky you!) and when he expressed interest in caring for the yard, she was delighted! The gardens were filled with a seemingly endless army of weeds, slugs, and ants, as well as terribly overgrown perennials. As Seth began to dig in June, he soon found more than fifteen thirty-pound cement slabs and many other various rocks surrounding the house. These structures, as well as the overgrown plants, all needed to be removed prior to planting anything substantial.

In this one short year, Seth has completely transformed his surroundings. He has removed the cement slabs and major rocks from the ground, making it a great place for new plants to take root. He has installed a flagstone walkway to replace the old crumbly sidewalk. He has extended the gardens to wrap all the way around the perimeter of the house, softening the look of the yard and blending this beautiful piece of history with the landscape. One section of his garden he has devoted to his strawberries and a few smaller shade annuals, bordered by hosta. He uses iris and hollyhock along with catmint and peonies as a backdrop to many of his garden areas. In the midsummer, a fragrance dances through the garden as a result of the Stargazer lilies Seth has placed throughout the taller-growing plants. He split the iris which were terribly overgrown and replanted seven individual plants which have since flourished. And let me tell you: this is one ambitious gardener! Seth tells me that he even successfully over-wintered his impatiens, geraniums, and mums from last year. I don’t think I’ve ever even done THAT! Seth has also had great luck with using seeds, growing some Celosias up to his hip! He also concentrated on growing more vegetables this year in an attempt to save some money on groceries and was quite successful. (Take a look at the large tomato in the photo below.) He says he took full advantage of the “plethora of great deals” from Holland Bulb Farms to fill his garden. Now that’s smart shopping!

Perhaps the most interesting aspect of Seth’s garden is the “micro-climate” he seems to experience. The foundation of the house has aged quite a bit and he feels that perhaps the heat loss around the house creates these warmer pockets along the perimeter. Some of his gladiolus returned this year, even though Seth technically resides in a Zone 4. He wonders if perhaps he could plant a semi-tropical perennial garden even in his Minnesota backyard. Based on the enthusiasm of this gardener, I expect that he’ll try it!

All in all, I’d say that Seth Denny’s story is truly one of success and inspiration. Not only has he found a hobby he truly enjoys, he has made his landlady extremely happy and has been showered by compliments from passer-by’s as well as neighbors at how wonderful the yard is looking! Keep us the good work, Seth and keep us posted! Thank you for sharing your story.

Until next time,

Have a comment to share with other readers? Feel free to post below. Have a question specifically for Bridget? Feel free to email her at bridget@bulbblog.com!

The first type of spring-planted bulb we’re going to focus on is the Dahlia. Known for its vibrant colors and tightly-packed (often large) flower heads, the Dahlia is truly a wonder to behold in the summer garden. In this article, we’ll review the advantages of using these beauties in your garden, as well as different planting techniques and tips for growing them.

The brilliant colors of Dahlias make quite the statement along a pathway!

Classification

Dahlias come in a wide range of shapes, sizes, and colors. The two largest classification of dahlias refer to the petal arrangement. These classifications are single-flowering (typically grow less than 3′ in height and blooms tend to be less than 4″ in diameter) and double-flowering (typically grow in excess of 3′ in height and forms larger blooms). The single-flowering dahlias include the Impression, Single, Orchid-Flowering, and Collarett varieties and tend to be less popular. The double-flowering dahlias consist of the Cactus, Semi-Cactus, Decorative, Dinnerplate, Ball or Pompon, Border, and Novelty varieties. The terms “single-” or “double-”flowering does not refer to how many times the plant will bloom but rather to the bloom structure itself. The single-flowering varieties bloom with just a single row of petals where as the double-flowering will have multiple rows.

Planting Dahlias

A typical dahlia tuber somewhat resembles a disfigured hand with "fingers".

When purchased as bulbs, Dahlias are sold as “tubers”. These tubers often resemble somewhat of a disfigured hand with multiple “fingers” extending downward from the center. The center of this tuber is actually the crown of the stem from the previous year’s growth! When this dahlia begins to sprout after planting, you will be able to see small green shoot protruding from this center crown. Like most bulbs, Dahlias require a well-drained soil (a good mixture of organic material including peat moss and compost manure does wonders) with little clay content. Again, like most bulbs, the Dahlia tubers will surely rot if allowed to sit wet for long spans of time. Select a location that is quite sunny (receives at least 6 hours of sunlight per day) and protected from strong winds. The tubers should be planted “fingers down” in the soil, with the center of the tuber where the stem was the year before just at the soil surface. Depending on the size of the tuber and the specific dahlia variety, spacing should typically range from 18-36″ apart, leaving them enough room to spread and grow properly.

Growing Dahlias

As previously mentioned, Dahlias should be planted during the spring season, anytime after the threat of frost is gone but before the weather gets too warm. For most of the United States, this time period falls between mid-March and mid-May. Dahlias will

Dahlias come in a wide variety of colors and shapes.

begin blooming mid-summer and most will continue on in the late summer and sometimes early fall! Keep the soil moist but definitely not saturated during the summer months. Once the plants reach a foot or so in height, the terminal shoot (or center stem) of the plant can pinched back to encourage branching. For increased flower size, pinch back the lateral (side) flower buds to direct more energy and nutrients to the main flower bud at the end of the stem. Fertilize once per month during the growing season with a water soluble fertilizer (such as Miracle-Grow).

Tuber Storage

Once the plants have completed their growing and blooming cycle, the leaves and flower stems will begin to die back as they enter their dormant stage. Dahlias are hardy in Zones 8, 9, 10, and 11. In these areas, simply cut the stems back to with 1-4″ of the soil surface once they have completely died back. Leave the tuber in the ground for the remaining fall and winter. If located in zones north of Zone 8 (Zones 1-7), you will need to take special care of the tubers in order to protect them from the harsh winter weather. Southern parts of Zone 7 can usually get away with giving the tubers a good drink of water in the fall and placing a think layer of mulch over the area where the tubers are planted. To be really sure, however, the tubers will need to be removed from the soil and overwintered indoors. To do so, follow these simple steps:

1. After the first frost, cut back the foliage and stems to within 1-4″ of the soil surface.
2. Carefully dig out the dahlia tuber, being sure not to sever any of the “fingers”. In order to avoid this, begin by digging at least 12″ away from the center of the plant in all directions.
3. Gently brush off any excess dirt from the tubers and spread them out in a shaded, well-ventilated area for several days. Do NOT leave the tubers in full sun.
4. Pack the tubers upside down in a well-ventilated box, basket, or bag using slightly damp vermiculite, perlite or peat moss, covering the clumps of tubers.
5. Store in temperatures of 35°F to 50°F and protect from hot or cold drafts.
6. Replant in the spring once ground has thawed.

One of the longest summer blooming bulbs, the variety and vibrant colors of Dahlias are something you won’t want to leave out of your summer garden this year. Whether you’re a veteran gardener or just starting to get your hands dirty, these tubers are sure to please without much fuss. Looking great in the garden as well as in a large vase on your dining room table, try some this year and be the talk of the town!

Until next time,

Have a question about dahlias or any other bulb gardening topic? Ask Bridget! Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a future post, you’ll receive a Holland Bulb Farms coupon for your next order at Holland Bulb Farms!

Bridget Bulb | Create Your Badge

When you think of “flower bulbs” what comes to mind? If you’re like most people, you immediate picture fields of tulips and daffodils, or maybe groupings of hyacinth.

While this idea of bulbs is definitely a correct one, it is also somewhat limited. Did you realize that there are actually two planting seasons for bulbs? These planting seasons are classified as “fall planted” and “spring planted” bulbs.

Fall bulbs are extremely popular and add great color to the spring garden!

Fall planted bulbs, as I mentioned earlier, are definitely the more well-known bulbs in the group. These include your allium, crocus, daffodils, fritillaria, hyacinth, iris, muscari (grape hyacinth), scilla, and of course, the tulips. These bulbs are typically planted sometime between mid-September and mid-December, depending on  your hardiness zone and then bloom the following spring. Many of these bulbs actually require a chilling period (the winter season) in order to bloom and grow correctly. Therefore, gardeners who live in Zones 2 through 7b/8 can grow these without any special care and leave the bulbs in the ground year round. On the other hand, gardeners who live in warmer climates (Zones 8 through 11) and don’t receive this chilling period naturally outdoors, need to provide these bulbs with the cool period artificially, such as in a refrigerator prior to planting every year.

Dahlias are just one of the many amazing spring planted bulbs that can add great color to your late summer and early fall garden.

Spring planted bulbs are somewhat less well-known in the “bulb world” but are just as valuable to the landscape! These bulbs include anemone, begonias, calla lilies, canna lilies, dahlias, elephant ears, gladiolus, oriental and asiatic lilies, and herbaceous perennials. These bulbs are best planted between early March and late May, again depending on the hardiness zone in which you are located and then bloom in the summer and/or fall. Many of these bulbs (with the exception of oriental/asiatic lilies as well as herbaceous perennials) are not frost hardy and therefore need protection or special care during the winter in Zones 2 through 7b/8. However, the gardeners in Zones 8 through 11 can leave most of these bulbs in the ground year-round without the worry of frost damage.

Since the spring planted bulbs are often overlooked but yet have oh-so-much to offer, I figured it might be good to review them. Over the next couple of weeks, I am going to lead you through the land of the spring planted bulbs. Each article will focus on a different type of spring planted (summer/fall blooming) bulbs, highlighting their great qualities as well as pointing out any maintenance tips that may be important. So follow me on this wonderful journey and open your eyes to this wonderful world of spring planted bulbs!

Until next time,

Have a question about when to plant a certain type of bulb or any other bulb gardening topic? Ask Bridget! Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a future post, you’ll receive a Holland Bulb Farms coupon for your next order at Holland Bulb Farms!