The weather here in the upper Midwest has been pretty perfect for being outside: warm sun, dry air, cool nights…more than a gardening girl like me could ever ask for! So over the past few days, I’ve stolen a few hours to myself to get outside and get my spring-blooming bulbs in the ground. After all, it just isn’t right that the house of the horticulturalist is absent of color in the spring.

Therefore, I went about my task of adding over 300 bulbs of different varieties to our front landscape. Considering our house has a very traditional, colonial look, I wanted to stick with some very classic, bold colors. My selections included Red Apeldoorn Darwin Hybrid Tulips, Dutch Master Daffodils, Tete-a-Tete Miniature Daffodils (one of my fave flowers of ALL-TIME), and then a mixture of Grape Hyacinth Muscari and Scilla. While planting, I decided to demonstrate two methods of planting bulbs: the row or one-bulb-per-hole method and the bouquet method. Determining which one you’ll use when planting your bulbs really depends on the look you are going for. In this post, I’ll explain the differences in each method and how to go about achieving both.

Row or One-Bulb-Per-Hole Method
I think the implications of this method are pretty obviously simply by reading the name. This is the method which most gardeners use and think when planting bulbs. In this method, a single hole is simply dug for each bulb to be planted. This hole is dug to the appropriate depth for the variety of bulb (typically 2-3 times the height of the bulb) and not much wider than the bulb itself. The bulb is then placed in the bottom of the hole, pointed-side up if applicable, and then the hole filled with dirt. If planting in this method, it is somewhat more important to make use of a tape measure in determining where to dig the next hole. Obviously, these measurements don’t have to be exactly the same, but with a few inches is important to give you the uniform look you are going for. If planting multiple rows, staggering your planting (planting holes on a diagonal) will give a much fuller look and appear less like soldiers standing at attention.

This method is very good in applications where a “formal” look is desired. Since all of the bulbs will be evenly spaced, it can also be good in large areas where a massing or “sea of color” is desired. The drawbacks to this method is that precision of measurements is a tad more important and the planting itself takes more time and involves more labor.

Bouquet Method
Again, the name of this method gives away much of the idea behind it. In this method, instead of planting one bulb per hole, a larger hole is dug and an odd number of bulbs is placed in the bottom. This method achieves more of a natural-looking “bouquet” of blooms in the landscape rather than evenly spaced blooms. For instance, if planting a large number of tulip bulbs, a hole approximately 10-12″ across and 6-8″ deep would be dug. Five to seven tulip bulbs would then be placed, pointed-side up, in the bottom of the hole and the hole filled in. When placing the bulbs in the bottom of the hole, all rules of spacing go out the window. Personally, this is the method in which I typically plant and I always just make sure that the hole is dug large enough so that the bulbs are not touching. When digging these larger holes, it is important to create as flat of a bottom to the hole as possible (a shape resembling that of a soup can) so that all of the bulbs in the hole are planted at the same depth. This can be somewhat challenging to accomplish, especially when using a spaded shovel with a pointed end. You may find it helpful to use a pointed-spade shovel when digging the majority of the hole but then switching to a flat or straight shovel to level the bottom. One big advantage of planting in bouquets is that as long as you are working with bulbs of similar planting depth requirements (such as tulips and daffodils or grape hyacinth and scilla), you can feel free to mix them up within the same hole to achieve a longer bloom time and a bigger varieties of blooms in the same area without leaving space between them as you would in the row method.

This method works excellent in areas where a natural, more “free-form” look is desired. Planting in bouquets is also much more manageable when working around other existing plants, structures, or along a wooded edge. The drawbacks of this method include the requirement of larger tools (I personally would hate to dig holes this large with a simple hand trowel) and the necessity of a little larger space to create such a large hole. It also is a little bit more of an investment as it typically calls for a larger number of bulbs.

Hope all of that made sense. It’s kind of a difficult concept to explain and therefore, I’ve included lots of pictures to illustrate the two differing methods. I know one thing is for certain: I can hardly wait to enjoy the results of my labor next spring! Also, Holland Bulb Farms has developed a special collection of the bulbs I’ve used in my front yard this year so you can watch your bulbs grow along with mine! I obviously, highly recommend the color and flower combination.

Until next time,

Many differnt fall bulbs can be forced in pots, including grape hyacinth.

We’ve all been there: for one reason or another you didn’t get to planting your spring-blooming bulbs this fall. Maybe you live in an apartment or condo where you have no yard, maybe the weather turned colder faster than you expected, or maybe you just plain didn’t get to it. Whatever the reason may be, it’s a bummer. This happened to me this year. Blame it on a lack of organization or the hectic nature of my life right now, regardless of the reasons why, I want to do something about. After all, I now know that when spring comes around and I see everyone else’s beautiful tulips, daffodils, and hyacinth blooming, I’m going to be kicking myself every harder.

In thinking about this the other day and talking to one of my dear friends who shares my love for gardening, we decided to try our hand at forcing bulbs this year. In discussing this, we realized what a great idea for a blog this would be! So this is Part I of our journey in forcing bulbs. I receive MANY questions regarding how to force and thought my readers may find it interesting to be led through the process step-by-step with real life results. Who knows how we may fair! We may fail or we may succeed! But one thing is certain: we will definitely learn!

What is Forcing?

Most fall-planted bulbs (such as tulips, daffodils, and hyacinth) require a “chilling period” in order for them to bloom and grow correctly. In climates where the winter temperatures remain cold enough for an adequate period of time (zones 2 through 7), this “chilling period” is provided naturally when bulbs are planted outdoors. However, if planting outdoors is not an option or you are located in a zone 8, 9, or 10, this chilling needs to be provided some other way. When this is done, it is referred to as “forcing” the flower bulbs. Basically, you are forcing the bulbs to grow and bloom through artificial means.

Next week, I’ll review some general guidelines for getting started and the steps you should take to begin the chilling process. Come along with me on this journey! In fact, you could try this at home along with me with your own fall-planted bulbs. Be sure to let me know if you’ll be forcing your own bulbs and keep me posted on the progress!

Until next time,

When you think of “flower bulbs” what comes to mind? If you’re like most people, you immediate picture fields of tulips and daffodils, or maybe groupings of hyacinth.

While this idea of bulbs is definitely a correct one, it is also somewhat limited. Did you realize that there are actually two planting seasons for bulbs? These planting seasons are classified as “fall planted” and “spring planted” bulbs.

Fall bulbs are extremely popular and add great color to the spring garden!

Fall planted bulbs, as I mentioned earlier, are definitely the more well-known bulbs in the group. These include your allium, crocus, daffodils, fritillaria, hyacinth, iris, muscari (grape hyacinth), scilla, and of course, the tulips. These bulbs are typically planted sometime between mid-September and mid-December, depending on  your hardiness zone and then bloom the following spring. Many of these bulbs actually require a chilling period (the winter season) in order to bloom and grow correctly. Therefore, gardeners who live in Zones 2 through 7b/8 can grow these without any special care and leave the bulbs in the ground year round. On the other hand, gardeners who live in warmer climates (Zones 8 through 11) and don’t receive this chilling period naturally outdoors, need to provide these bulbs with the cool period artificially, such as in a refrigerator prior to planting every year.

Dahlias are just one of the many amazing spring planted bulbs that can add great color to your late summer and early fall garden.

Spring planted bulbs are somewhat less well-known in the “bulb world” but are just as valuable to the landscape! These bulbs include anemone, begonias, calla lilies, canna lilies, dahlias, elephant ears, gladiolus, oriental and asiatic lilies, and herbaceous perennials. These bulbs are best planted between early March and late May, again depending on the hardiness zone in which you are located and then bloom in the summer and/or fall. Many of these bulbs (with the exception of oriental/asiatic lilies as well as herbaceous perennials) are not frost hardy and therefore need protection or special care during the winter in Zones 2 through 7b/8. However, the gardeners in Zones 8 through 11 can leave most of these bulbs in the ground year-round without the worry of frost damage.

Since the spring planted bulbs are often overlooked but yet have oh-so-much to offer, I figured it might be good to review them. Over the next couple of weeks, I am going to lead you through the land of the spring planted bulbs. Each article will focus on a different type of spring planted (summer/fall blooming) bulbs, highlighting their great qualities as well as pointing out any maintenance tips that may be important. So follow me on this wonderful journey and open your eyes to this wonderful world of spring planted bulbs!

Until next time,

Have a question about when to plant a certain type of bulb or any other bulb gardening topic? Ask Bridget! Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a future post, you’ll receive a Holland Bulb Farms coupon for your next order at Holland Bulb Farms!

In perusing my favorite gardening websites the other day, I came across some really cool, different looking plants such as the Purple Fritillaria and the Hair Allium. These guys were super unique and I had to find a place for them in my garden. If you’re anything like me,

The repeating red hues of this garden help to unify the landscape in spite of the many different types of plants used.

you love plants. You love getting creative and experimenting with new plants and bulbs that add a different twist to your garden and make it stand out from all the rest.

While creativity and boldness are great attributes of wonderful gardeners, sometimes this “all caution to the wind” approach can leave a garden looking random and not extremely pleasing to the eye. While each individual plant was selected for its unique and excellent characteristics, planting too many different varieties and not enough of each can create more of a jumbled mess then anything else. Does this mean you have to give up your love for trying new things and being adventurous? Most definitely not! By paying attention to the following attributes while selecting your plants, you can create a garden space that is not only interesting but also pulls the eye in with common characteristics which will lead the on-looker visually through the garden:

Color: Most everyone has at least two or three colors which they find most pleasing in the the landscape. So you want to try allium and coneflowers? Why not stick within the same “color palette” rather than trying to do too much with a little space? This can be done with many different plants. If you’re in love with daffodils but want to avoid the “one of everything” look, try repeating the yellow of the center of the daffodil in the petals of another. By playing off some of the insignificant colors of one flower, you can make a much more “connected” and cohesive look with all of the other flowers.

Texture: So you’re in love with ornamental grasses but don’t want to stick to just one variety. That’s fine! Plant clusters of like-varieties throughout your garden space to carry on the theme. If you’re big into succulents but still want variety and interest, couple them with

The pure yellow daffodils intermixed with the others helps to bring out the yellow centers of the white blooms.

other plants of the same texture like Hens and Chicks or different varieties of the sedum. The same can be true of bulbs. If you love the thin, elegant foliage of the dutch iris, planting it among another thin-leafed perennial like daylilies can help blend the two plant types together.

If you’ve found something you like in the garden, stick with it! Want to add variety? Go right ahead! Just remember to try to avoid the “hodge podge” look by playing off some of the key elements. This will add harmony to your landscape and be very pleasing to eyes of all who pass by!

Until next time,

Have a question about which fall planted bulbs to plant in your garden or any other bulb gardening topic? Ask Bridget! Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a future post, you’ll receive a Holland Bulb Farms coupon for your next order with Holland Bulb Farms!

Our breezeway entrance, beginning to show life this spring!

My husband and I are relatively new in our neighborhood and have not yet had a chance to get acquainted with our neighbors. When we first moved into our house at the end of last fall, the landscape was quite stark, like a blank canvas just waiting for the artist’s touch. In the small amount of time I had before the snow fell,  I planted over 150 daffodil and tulip bulbs in the front yard. So you can imagine how thrilled I was this spring when the foliage began peeking out of the soil and continued to produce beautiful blooms. Did I mention that I also realized not one other house on our street had a yard as beautiful as ours???

Ever since the first sign of growth, my husband and I have been “charting” the plants’ progress. In fact, one day he said to me, “Bridget, I swear that I can actually see those tulips growing taller–they seem to be growing so fast!” It made me happy to have my husband as excited as I was at the success of the spring blooming bulbs I had planted.

The beginning of spring in the front of our house!

For a few weeks now, we’ve enjoyed the tulip and daffodil blooms and have made notes of which ones bloomed first, second, third, and so on. It is always interesting to me to observe how a garden can “evolve” over the course of a month or two while one plant finishes flowering and the next one takes over. And as it turns out, I wasn’t the only one admiring my spring blooms…

The tulips and daffodils brightening the walkway to our breezeway entrance.

This past weekend, I was dusting our living room (one of the worst house chores there is) and I happened to glance out our front bay window. I did a double take as I realized a young teenage couple, dressed to the nines standing in front of my flowerbed! As I took in the situation, I also noticed a corsage and boutineer, complete with a proud mother snapping photographs of the “prom-ready” couple! At first I couldn’t help but think, “The nerve! This is MY yard and these are MY flowers!” But just as I was about to run out into my front yard waving a baseball bat, I suddenly felt flattered. These neighbors of mine, whom I had never met before, had thought enough of MY flowers to want them in their picture! What better compliment could a gardener receive?!

The front flowerbed near to full bloom...and also the backdrop to a couple's pre-prom photograph

Now I’m not certain that I would ever have the guts to pose for a picture five feet in front of a house owned by someone I had never met, but the experience definitely made me feel good. After all, do we not plant flowers to beautify our surroundings? I like to think that my little piece of the earth makes it a nicer place to live. And for this young prom couple, it made a beautiful picture which will be viewed in photo albums long after the flowers fade.

Until next time,

Have a question about which bulbs are the most photogenic or any other gardening topic? Ask Bridget! Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a future post, you’ll receive a Holland Bulb Farms coupon for your next order with Holland Bulb Farms!

“I know you’re not supposed to plant fall bulbs in the spring but we were hit with hard winter weather rather early this year and I am left with at least 100 tulip and daffodil bulbs that were unable to get planted. Would they survive to bloom next year if I were to plant them now?”

~Dianne from Idaho

Dianne asks a very good question…and one I’ve heard quite often! We all know what it’s like to have the greatest plans for our yard that never seem to quite materialize. Sometimes you even get so motivated that you actually purchase the bulbs and yet they still never make it in the ground! Whether it’s a forgetful mind, the unpredictability of Mother Nature, or just plain running out of time, it’s okay: we’ve ALL done it. And the best news? It may not be too late for your bulbs!

These bulbs were bought with good intentions...anything you can do with them now?

The most important factor to consider when deciding what to do with fall bulbs which were never planted in fall is the conditions in which they have been stored. Were they kept in a cool, dry place since you bought them? Were they left out in the garage? Were they left on the warm kitchen table? Test your bulbs for firmness by squeezing them. Also look for signs of rot or blight by checking the outside of the bulbs for dark or mushy spots. If the bulbs feel firm and have a rather healthy-looking outside, then you’ve got yourself some winners! Most likely, if the bulb was left outside or in a very cold garage and was allowed to freeze, it is no longer salvageable.

So now that you’ve determined that your bulbs are still healthy enough to survive, it’s time to get them “chilled.” As you may or may not know, most fall bulbs (tulips, daffodils, and hyacinth to be specific) need to be chilled in order to grow and bloom properly in the springtime. When planting them in northern climates which receive consistently cool weather in the winter (Zones 3-8), this happens naturally. However, since your bulbs were not planted before the winter and now the ground is frozen, the bulbs can no longer be planted in the ground this year. This leaves you with two options:

1. Plant the bulbs in one large (or a few small) pots. Plant them at the correct depth but don’t worry too
   

   These 'Queen of Night' Tulips need to be chilled in order to grow and bloom correctly.

   much about the spacing. As long as the bulbs aren’t on top of one another or smashed side-by-side, they’ll be fine. Place this pot in a cool but not freezing garage (upper 30′s and 40′s for temperature). If you do not have a garage or shed which meets this criteria, the pot can be left outside on a patio or deck as long as it is wrapped in something which will protect it from frost (such as burlap or bubble wrap). The bulbs will then receive their necessary “chilling” period but will not freeze. In approximately 10 to 12 weeks or so, you should start to see a little growth. Once this happens, move the pot to a nice sunny patio or lawn area (or remove the bubble warp). The bulbs will continue to grow and bloom just as they would in the ground. The bulbs can then be dug out of the pot and moved to a flowerbed either during their growing cycle or after the foliage has browned and dried. OR…

2. Place the bulbs in a paper bag in the refrigerator. Be sure that the refrigerator is set at a temperature between 35°F and 50°F. Also, rid the refrigerator of any fruit (particularly apples) as these produce a plant hormone called “ethylene” when ripening which will cause flower bulbs to rot. After a period of 10-12 weeks, the bulbs may start to sprout. At this time, the ground outside should be thawed and the bulbs planted in the ground. They will then grow and bloom as normal!

One important thing to keep in mind when doing this is that the environment required by these bulbs is being artificially created. Therefore, be forgiving of your bulbs and do not expect them to be super all-star growers and bloomers the first year. It may take them a little while to readjust but after they have completed their first full growing season, you’ll never be able to tell the difference!

Because Dianne’s question was featured in the Bulb Blog, she received a $5.00 off coupon for her next Holland Bulb Farms order. Congratulations to her and thank you for the great question! Keep them coming and you may get a coupon, too!

Until next time,

Got a gardening question for Bridget? Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a post, you’ll receive a coupon of your next order at www.hollandbulbfarms.com!